Paper Pieces for English Paper Piecing

14" Mariner's Compass EPP: Curved Point Piecing Tips

14" Mariner's Compass EPP: Curved Point Piecing Tips

By Paper Pieces for English Paper Piecing | Published: 2026-10-31

Category: How-to Guides

Master curved EPP piecing on the 14" Mariner's Compass block with a step-by-step order, common mistakes to avoid, and tips for sharp points and flat seams.

Quick answer

Piece the 14" Mariner's Compass by working from the center outward in paired units, basting accurately and joining curves with small, even stitches. Always check point alignment before knotting off.

Why curve order matters more than stitch speed

Curved EPP seams are less forgiving than straight ones: a small misalignment at the start of a seam can throw off every subsequent point. Work in a fixed sequence—center star first, then surrounding rounds—so you can verify each ring before adding the next. This also limits how much you unpick if a point turns out blunt.

When to baste vs. glue

Basting with thread gives you more control on tight curves because you can adjust fabric tension as you go. Glue basting is faster but can shift on sharp inner curves unless you use tiny dots and let them dry fully. For the 14" block, many makers thread-baste the curved outer arcs and glue-baste the straighter inner seams.

Step-by-step curved point piecing

  1. Prepare papers and templates: Separate the paper pieces by round and label them with a fine pencil or sticker. If using acrylics, trace and cut fabric with a scant 1/4" seam allowance. Common mistake: mixing up pieces from different rounds—keep each round in its own bag. Check that every paper piece lies flat before basting; curled papers cause lumpy seams.
  2. Baste the center star: Thread-baste the center diamond or triangle pieces first, using a small knot and tiny stitches that don't pierce the paper. Common mistake: basting too close to the edge, which makes the paper hard to remove later. Leave the basting tails long enough to grip when removing papers.
  3. Join center units into pairs: With right sides together, whipstitch two basted units along one curved edge, starting and stopping exactly at the corner. Use a fine needle and match thread to the darker fabric. Common mistake: stitching past the corner, which creates a pucker. After each pair, open it and check that the outer edges meet evenly.
  4. Assemble the full center star: Continue joining pairs into quarters, then join quarters into the complete star. Work with the curve facing you and rotate the piece rather than bending the paper. Common mistake: pulling stitches too tight, which distorts the curve. Press the star flat with your fingers before adding the next round.
  5. Add surrounding rounds one at a time: Attach each new round to the star, matching seam intersections and pinning or clipping at the points. Stitch from point to point, easing the curve as you go. Common mistake: sewing a whole round before checking alignment—verify after every 3–4 pieces. If a point is off by more than 1/8", unpick that seam now rather than later.
  6. Finish outer edges and remove papers: Once all rounds are joined, remove the papers only after the block is completely stitched and pressed. Use tweezers to pull papers gently. Common mistake: removing papers too early, which lets seams stretch. Store the finished block flat under a book if you won't quilt it immediately.

Product facts

  • 14" Mariner's Compass: 14" Mariner's Compass Block Papers and Acrylics are sold separately. You can buy the papers alone if you already own the acrylic templates, or add acrylics for fussy cutting and accurate tracing.
    14" Mariner's Compass
    14" Mariner's Compass

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