EPP Buying Guide: Octagons, Pentagons, and Jewels
By Paper Pieces for English Paper Piecing | Published: 2026-10-21
Category: Buying Guides
Learn how to choose between octagon, pentagon, and jewel shapes for English paper piecing, with practical decision rules and trade-offs.
Quick Answer
Choose octagons for bold, geometric medallions; stretched pentagons for elongated star points; and jewels for intricate, interlocking designs. Match the shape to your pattern's visual effect and your comfort with more complex seams.
Why Shape Choice Matters More Than Size
The silhouette of each shape changes how light and fabric patterns read in your finished quilt. Octagons create strong, open centers that pair well with squares or diamonds. Stretched pentagons elongate the classic pentagon, making them ideal for star points that need a longer, narrower profile. Jewels are small and angular, giving you a way to fill gaps between other shapes or to build delicate, repeating motifs.
Your skill level also plays a role. Octagons and pentagons are straightforward to baste and join because they have fewer points to manage. Jewels, with their narrow angles, require more precision at the intersections. If you are new to EPP, starting with larger shapes and simpler angles will build confidence before you tackle jewels.
Seam Allowance and Pack Size Trade-offs
Seam allowance is a practical decision that affects both waste and ease of use. A 1/4" seam is the standard for most EPP projects, leaving enough fabric to turn over comfortably. A 3/8" seam gives you extra fabric for thicker materials or for trimming if your basting is uneven. No-seam options exist for templates you plan to use with a different method, but they are less common for traditional EPP.
Pack size is about matching the scale of your project. Small packs are perfect for testing a shape or making a small sampler. Large and bulk packs reduce the cost per piece and save you from running out mid-project, but they require a bigger upfront investment. If you are unsure about a shape, start with a small pack and buy more once you confirm it works for your design.
Decision Rules for Choosing Your EPP Shapes
- If you want a bold, geometric centerpiece: Choose octagons. Their wide angles create a strong visual anchor and pair easily with squares or diamonds. For a larger project, select a bulk pack to keep costs down. Check that the octagon size matches your pattern's seam allowance requirements.
- If you need elongated star points or a modern twist: Go with stretched pentagons. The 1" x 1-3/8" size gives you a longer point than a regular pentagon, making it easier to build dynamic star motifs. Consider how the stretched shape will align with adjacent pieces before committing to a full pack.
- If you want to fill small gaps or add intricate detail: Pick jewels. Their 9/16" size is perfect for filling spaces between larger shapes or creating delicate borders. Start with a small pack to test the complexity. Jewels have more points to manage, so practice on a few pieces before starting a large project.
Shapes at a Glance
- 9/16" Jewels: 9/16" Jewels are available in Small Pack (88 pieces), Large Pack (528 pieces), and Bulk Pack (1056 pieces). The tiny size and large pack counts make jewels a practical choice for filling backgrounds or adding accent details without buying multiple packs.
9/16" Jewels - 1-3/8" Octagons: 1-3/8" Octagons come in Small Pack (24 pieces), Large Pack (144 pieces), and Bulk Pack (288 pieces), with seam options including No Seam, 1/4" Seam, and 3/8" Seam. The 1/4" seam is the go-to for most quilters, but the 3/8" option gives you extra fabric if you prefer a more generous fold-over or are working with thicker materials.
1-3/8" Octagons - 1" x 1-3/8" Stretched Pentagons: 1" x 1-3/8" Stretched Pentagons are available in Small Pack (36 pieces), Large Pack (216 pieces), and Bulk Pack (432 pieces), with seam options including No Seam, 1/4" Seam, and 3/8" Seam. The elongated shape is ideal for creating star points or other designs that need a longer, narrower pentagon, and the 1/4" seam is the most common choice for these pieces.
Who Should Choose Which Shape
Best for
- Beginners or quilters who want a straightforward shape with fewer points to manage: octagons
- Quilters who love star motifs or need elongated points in their design: stretched pentagons
- Advanced EPP enthusiasts who enjoy precise, intricate piecing: jewels
Not for
- If you are new to EPP and want the simplest possible shape, jewels may be frustrating due to their small size and sharp angles.
- If you need a shape that fills large open areas quickly, octagons and stretched pentagons are better than jewels, which are better for accents.
